So many allegedly "green" and other critiques of the world - especially about consumerism, authenticity, travel-versus-tourism, footprints on the world, and heaps of other things but I'm not in a list mood - are based on the unencumbered, the able-bodied, the young and the righteous. And hey, I don't like being put on the defensive. But here goes. If I could have an "authentic" experience, off the beaten track, with nature and without pollution, without too much luggage - or baggage - then I would. OK, well, if it involved camping I wouldn't, to be honest. I've never quite seen the point. But work with me on this. So if I could, I might, and if I did, I'd catch the train, and hoist a bag, and carry a bottle of water and a book, and hold hands with my fella, and we'd slather ourselves with sunblock and jump into the ocean without looking back.
Instead, when we head out, there's a carload of stuff. There's back up. There's a heavy-duty mobility device, pretending to be a pram. There's water, for three of us; but there's thickened water for Miz M, so she doesn't aspirate. There's carnitine, for Clancy, in case he decides to go into a metabolic meltdown. And yes, there are mobile phones, all charged up and ready to go.
But we still want to just run onto the sand, dive into the waves, hare off up a path. Like many a parent of toddlers, we can't; but unlike some of the others, we have to assess those paths with a practiced eye. Look at the curve. Contemplate the buried roots. Think about those rocks.
And so, instead, we ended up in the Lamington National Park, at a guesthouse, driving up a winding winding road on the Friday night. Abe, tense and tired and grumpy after a difficult day/ week/ month at work. Me, slightly unprepared and feeling hassled and hussled. Every 100 m or so there's another sign warning of a "blind corner", a single lane - but no warnings about unexpected demands to read maps, to alert to signposts, to beware overhanging cliffs or conversation, falling rocks of comments, and other moments in the front seat. No dramas in the back: two small children in flanelette pyjamas as the weather was strangely cool, and we were heading skywards. So, conversational gambits wound through my head as dangerously as the road, and came out like those wire baskets that stop the side of the road from falling in. One of my brothers-in-law spent a terrible summer filling and making those; a desparate job and days relieved only by drinking too much at the end of them, and talking shit with the instant-friends from the work group (him, not me). So instead, we reverted to silence, while on Radio National a terribly amusing grandson of the bullying, clever, dreadful Waughs spoke about fathers and sons, literary antecendents, and the power of letters in the archive. Funny and inspiring, but the road curves didn't get any easier.
Finally, we arrived, and it was cold. So we cranked up the heat in the room and dehydrated ourselves and baked, tossing and turning under covers imprinted with "regent bowerbirds" with their flashes of orange, while Clancy complained and wiggled and would only settle in our bed, where he threw out wild and indiscriminate little arms, to wack us each in the eye.
The next morning was clear and beautiful. Poor Abe was exhausted, and he and Clancy curled up together, sweetly snoozing as we'd finally made the room comfortable. So Morgaine and I headed off for a guided birdwatching walk, at 6.30, where we met up with a group of mostly-elderly cheerful couples, one funky pair of 40-somethings, and a woman who I thought had woken up in a giant flanny nightie and slipped on a jacket, ugly shoes and a fleece jacket, in what seemed a moment of bravado and confidence, and I was ready to admire her bushwalkery don't-give-a-damn . . . and then I realised later it was just a terribly unflattering skirt. Ooops. So we could mostly walk along the walkways, and see dozens of birds, explained by a dry, knowledgeable, interesting woman. Flashes of colour. Strange sounds - including a "cat bird", that could easily have been rechristened a "strangled cat bird" - and iconic sounds, given context.
Iconic sounds, like the "whip bird", which I've heard so many times, echoing around the bush, but had never seen. Birds that mate for life, and a more confident male came skimming and hopping along the ground, to accept various approved-offerings to take back to his mate. A sound that echoes off cavernous skies and across valleys, implying high branches and grand outlooks, but which instead come from the ground. I've always associated it with bushranger Ben Hall, and the romance of his defiant, anti-state stance, all fed by populist writer Frank Clune, and the TV version which gave me one of my first ever childhood crushes.
Morgaine, I suspect, wasn't thinkign about bushrangers as I pushed her through the bush, but she did seem to enjoy breathing in the air, hearing the trees, and getting ready for an extremely large breakfast.
Later in the day, we went on another boardwalk, up to treetop level in the rainforest . . . and this is one of the few ways she'll ever get to experience the bush. It'll be constrained, rather than wild and unexpected. It has to be wheelchair accessible. It can't easily be off the track, taking another path, following the road less trodden. So many many constraints for my sweet girl, and there's a challenge for parents of a child with a disability: how not to overly constrain, overly manage, hem in? Are those treetop walks a wonderful opportunity, or ridiculously lame?
Still, some of that managing of experiences is just about childhood, not about disability. Communing with nature? Well, how about paying 4 bucks for a metal tray of birdseed, especially selected so as not to damage the natural feed patterns of the Crimson Rosella . . . and then being swooped upon by these gaudy, raucous, beautiful, bright, unlikely looking birds. Clancy was entranced and amused; Morgaine laughed out loud and shook her feet at them; and I thought having these beautiful, raucous, bright (you get the picture) birds walking on my arms and landing on my hair was EEK GET OFF ME!!! GO AWAY! GET YOUR SCALY LITTLE FEET OFF MY BARE SKIN YUK YUK YUK. Apart from that, of course, it was fine . . .
Then on the way home, on the Sunday afternoon, we were able to enjoy winding down the mountain and actually being able to see. While at the bottom, there was a vineyard with a tasting room, and a river with simply gorgeous trees and outlook and a huge homestead, that - apart from being in completely the wrong state - seemed very Ethel Turner, very "Seven Little Australians". I had a surreptitious check under the tree to check that Judy wasn't there, squished, in one of the most memorable moments of melodrama from both literature and tv for me, rivalling my crush on Ben Hall. I always overdid things, as a kid, so as well as reading Seven Little Australians, I searched out the other books that followed in the series, including "House at Misrule" (is that what it was called?) which the librarian sourced from one of the teacher's own bookshelves. One of those ancient books where the pages are crisp, and corners break off it you're not careful. Now, I think that was a helluva effort that woman made for me, a ten year old who wanted to read ALL the books in the series. I can see the library now, a demountable, and a small round woman with dark hair.
From that, though, the idea of "Misrule" has always appealed to me. It appeals to me as a carnivalesque idea, but there's always been a touch of Australiana about it for me: a rambling house, a bunch of kids, some 1890s-style nationalism that proclaimed the Aussie kid as "different", by which she meant "different from" the English. But when you're ten, that "other" is hard to identify, even if you know it's there. And at a pinch, I wonder if I can remember their names, without checking: let's see - Meg, Pip, Judy, Baby, Bunty and the Major. I think I've left one out. None in a wheelchair, of course, because the tree branch that fell on Judy, in the book - and in the TV series when I was about 8, that broke her back, killed her rather than injured her. No space, there, for surviving in a different body. With the tree, she both lost her defiance and kept it forever. Remained an ideal. Occasionally, but not very often, that actor turns up in other roles on TV, and it's always surprising. She must have extricated herself, you think; she walked away after all. Perhaps those legs will walk, after all.